Hiatus and 2009 overview (yeah, its been that long!)
Well, 2009 was a crazy year and thought that I would write a quick post to catch everyone up.
2009 started with a Eddie Bauer sponsored trip to Argentina to climb Aconcagua while gear testing and gathering media imagery. It was great to get out and travel to Argentina as its been quite awhile since I was last there. Unfortunately a friend and fellow RMI guide died after getting trapped on the summit in a huge storm while guiding several climbers on a non RMI trip. This was a very tragic and incredible loss for all of us and especially for Fede’s family. We were en route to base camp when we heard the news and the feeling of helplessness was almost unbearable. I would kindly recommend you to check out his Wife’s website about the accident and the foundation that was created in Federico’s Campanini’s honor.
www.elfede.org
I returned to Colorado and began ice guiding around and inside the Ouray Ice Park and prepared for a Eddie Bauer sponsored climb on Mt. Everest only to find myself removed from the roster 4 weeks before departure. Lame and unfortunate, but in the end I guess it just wasn’t my time.
I travelled to Canada and skied the Wapta Traverse with friend and RMI co-guide Tyler Reid and felt my spirits lift. We skied and laughed our asses off which was over due for me after a hard winter of loss.
After blitzing thru the U.S. Border, I flew to Alaska to guide the route Ham & Eggs on the Mooses Tooth. My client and I found excellent conditions, high pressure and because of this, decided to break up the climb into two days. After slaying the first 14 pitches of alpine ice, we set up camp on the summit ridge, had a great dinner and went to sleep under the Alaskan twilight. The next morning we woke up, climbed the corniced summit ridge and made the summit. We then rappelled back to the root canal camp in time for lunch and hot toddies.
As summer set in, I relocated to Washington State, where I work for RMI and Mountain Madness on Mt. Rainier and in the North Cascades. Things went well and I believe all had a good summer of mountaineering and alpine climbing. My highlights were guiding the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, cragging at Washington Pass and rigging ladders over crazy crevasses on Mt. Rainier.
As the Rainier season ended I returned back to Ridgway, Colorado and enjoyed the fall sunshine as I settled back in at home and awaited another winter in the San Juans.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Thursday, November 6, 2008
The Off Season
With my Washington season completed and back home from Ecuador, the "off" season begins! The Ouray Ice Park doesn't open until Dec. 13th and since I've been walking uphill slowly for the past four months, I should have plenty of motivation and time to get into real climbing shape. I just have to get away from this damn computer! Unfortunately this is also my time to play catch up with clients, both new and old and work on the upcoming climbing season, program expansion, upcoming calender, guide courses and exams. I guess that explains why I check the online news and YouTube every hour!
At least we have plenty of mixed climbing here in the Ouray area. Actually there is a lot of mixed climbing although at this time of the year I'm primarily just dry tooling. To keep it short we have numerous routes here to climb with crampons and ice tools in hand, its just that they never form any ice. Hence the term Dry tooling. I know its not ice climbing and yes, it is quite contrived but it's still extremely fun and gets your pump on for the upcoming season!
As the season progresses and the temperatures begin to drop, the ice does slowly begin to come in. Usually in Nov (right now) the north facing ice routes form pretty nice in and around silverton. Think of it as tropical ice climbing where one has to wake up extra early, as in the dark, to safely climb these routes and rappel back down in a dripping shower of just above freezing water. Sounds like fun ....right!!??
Well, actually it is a shit load of fun and when the snow falls too deep or the roads get too sketchy, one goes dry tooling! (but only during the sunny periods)
Cotopaxi, Ecuador
In October I travelled to Ecuador to climb Cotopaxi. Although this is not a technically challenging mountain outside of it's altitude of 19,348, I was extremely excited to visit as this was my first trip to Ecuador. Flying from Houston, Tx. I arrived in Quito (9,350 ft.) around 11pm after a grueling flight of mean cocktails and cheap peanuts. At first sight, It was just another foreign country with the same familiar lights and traffic. But at second glance it proved to be a very cool city with attractions and dangers, some familiar and some not. High speeds, flashing headlights and swerving cars reminded me some things never change down here. With a chuckle, I noticed nobody even batted in eye, except for us in the back of the van gripping the seats. Aaahhhh .... the sweet rush of everyday near death experiences in South America!
let the adventures begin.
After settling in to our hotel room, someone had the bright idea of suggesting " How about a night cap across the street, just one beer". I'm old enough to know better than that one but what the hell, denial is a beautiful thing sometimes, especially when it comes to drinking! Soooo, several beers later the shots arrived and the toasts began. Than another and another. To be shamefully honest, on the fourth round I made my toast and poured it on the floor. The funny part was that it was already soaking wet from other peoples dastardly underhanded pours. As the "El Torro" tequila settled in it become extremely obvious that it was well past time to head home.
The next day we all had a slow start as we ate breakfast and prepared to do a short acclimatization hike just outside of town. Things went well and we all had a good time, feeling alive and fresh with the outdoor air (thin air but still air!) in our lungs. The next day we woke and started our drive to a local farmhouse near the park entrance.
Hacienda El Porvenir was incredible! Straw roof with adobe style walls and an incredible interior layout. We chilled inside and drank sugar cane liquor in hot tea while the lamas chased tail outside in a fruitless attempt to stay warm. In the distant, thru the clouds, we could see the base of Cotopaxi and felt the closeness of our upcoming climb.
After two nights and a day of exploring, we headed to the base of Cotopaxi and arrived at the Jose Ribas Refugio at 16,000'. Here, the weather was spotty at best although by evening we had several clear views of the mountain. The first night I slept like a narcoleptic champ but the second found me tossing and turning like my four year old son. With the help of many a story on the ol' MP3 player, I at least got some rest before the alarm went off. An alpine start is never easy and this one was true to the name. But after some breakfast and several cups of hot coffee, I was ramped up and ready to crush!
As we started out in the darkness, it was obvious that the snow had accumulated quite a bit, with drifts moving into the upper calf. Dawn was approaching now and the early morning light was absolutely fantastic! We were above the clouds, approaching the summit and everybody was feeling great and doing an awesome job. Unfortunately as we got closer to the summit, the snow accumulation only increased. After a quick break, we decided that our current location would be the high point. The new snow with the ever steeping angle was not conducive to a safe summit, even though we were only several hundred feet from the summit. After a couple of photos and high fives, we packed up and began our descent down to the Refugio. Even though we had disappointment in our hearts, we had grins on our faces and laughter in our words.
let the adventures begin.
After settling in to our hotel room, someone had the bright idea of suggesting " How about a night cap across the street, just one beer". I'm old enough to know better than that one but what the hell, denial is a beautiful thing sometimes, especially when it comes to drinking! Soooo, several beers later the shots arrived and the toasts began. Than another and another. To be shamefully honest, on the fourth round I made my toast and poured it on the floor. The funny part was that it was already soaking wet from other peoples dastardly underhanded pours. As the "El Torro" tequila settled in it become extremely obvious that it was well past time to head home.
The next day we all had a slow start as we ate breakfast and prepared to do a short acclimatization hike just outside of town. Things went well and we all had a good time, feeling alive and fresh with the outdoor air (thin air but still air!) in our lungs. The next day we woke and started our drive to a local farmhouse near the park entrance.
Hacienda El Porvenir was incredible! Straw roof with adobe style walls and an incredible interior layout. We chilled inside and drank sugar cane liquor in hot tea while the lamas chased tail outside in a fruitless attempt to stay warm. In the distant, thru the clouds, we could see the base of Cotopaxi and felt the closeness of our upcoming climb.
After two nights and a day of exploring, we headed to the base of Cotopaxi and arrived at the Jose Ribas Refugio at 16,000'. Here, the weather was spotty at best although by evening we had several clear views of the mountain. The first night I slept like a narcoleptic champ but the second found me tossing and turning like my four year old son. With the help of many a story on the ol' MP3 player, I at least got some rest before the alarm went off. An alpine start is never easy and this one was true to the name. But after some breakfast and several cups of hot coffee, I was ramped up and ready to crush!
As we started out in the darkness, it was obvious that the snow had accumulated quite a bit, with drifts moving into the upper calf. Dawn was approaching now and the early morning light was absolutely fantastic! We were above the clouds, approaching the summit and everybody was feeling great and doing an awesome job. Unfortunately as we got closer to the summit, the snow accumulation only increased. After a quick break, we decided that our current location would be the high point. The new snow with the ever steeping angle was not conducive to a safe summit, even though we were only several hundred feet from the summit. After a couple of photos and high fives, we packed up and began our descent down to the Refugio. Even though we had disappointment in our hearts, we had grins on our faces and laughter in our words.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
THE TOUR GUIDE
The sun was baking down and the North Carolina humidity was turning my ice cold sangria into tepid juice. This, like most family visits was trying my patience in explaining yet once again exactly what it is I do for work. " So, are you still leading tours?" my Aunt asked. I took another gulp of my wine concoction , desperately trying to absorb some alcohol before I sweated it out. "Actually, I work as a mountain guide and I do guided and instructional climbs, not hikes." I said this as I cringed inside knowing that the majority of my summer guiding takes place on a "non technical" route up Mt Rainier. I got the usual reply of "oh" and the conversation quickly morphed into something that could be easily grasped and enjoyed. I peered into my quickly emptying glass wondering why these were always such difficult conversations for me.
It never ceases to amaze me that my family, after all these years still don't understand or know what it is that I do as a Mountain Guide. How does one explain not just the job description but a lifestyle like this? All the cold days and midnight starts, the joys, challenges and dangers of being a Mountain Guide. But most importantly, how does one convey that I don't "lead tours" or go hiking with a picnic basket in hand pointing out the local flora and fauna! This has been the bane of my family visits for as long as I can remember or at least as long as I've been guiding.
My wife manages the massage practice for RMI in Ashford and I've seen some similar bad terminology. For ex. If I hear one more guide tell their climbers that they can go get a "rub down" or that "RMI now has a massage parlor" and that my wife is a "Masseuse", I'm going to strangle them. Literally!
But in the end I do what I always do, I take a deep breathe and drop some education. Words like "therapist" and "body work" usually play into the schooling. Unfortunately, I get better looks of understanding from my co workers than I do from my Carolina visits.
As far as my in-laws and family goes, well, I guess I have to take a deep breathe, prepare myself for the "T" word, say it all again, smile and know that some things will never change.
Sangria anyone?
It never ceases to amaze me that my family, after all these years still don't understand or know what it is that I do as a Mountain Guide. How does one explain not just the job description but a lifestyle like this? All the cold days and midnight starts, the joys, challenges and dangers of being a Mountain Guide. But most importantly, how does one convey that I don't "lead tours" or go hiking with a picnic basket in hand pointing out the local flora and fauna! This has been the bane of my family visits for as long as I can remember or at least as long as I've been guiding.
My wife manages the massage practice for RMI in Ashford and I've seen some similar bad terminology. For ex. If I hear one more guide tell their climbers that they can go get a "rub down" or that "RMI now has a massage parlor" and that my wife is a "Masseuse", I'm going to strangle them. Literally!
But in the end I do what I always do, I take a deep breathe and drop some education. Words like "therapist" and "body work" usually play into the schooling. Unfortunately, I get better looks of understanding from my co workers than I do from my Carolina visits.
As far as my in-laws and family goes, well, I guess I have to take a deep breathe, prepare myself for the "T" word, say it all again, smile and know that some things will never change.
Sangria anyone?
Saturday, July 19, 2008
This Spring has been a little more chaotic than usual as I over committed myself once again. My wife and I just bought a house in Ridgway which was the most expensive thing we've ever purchased and the cheapest thing in the entire valley! Three weeks later I was driving out to Washington state to work a winter seminar on Mt. Rainier which would turn out to be RMI's first guided ascent for 2008. I then flew up to Alaska to guide a ski/touring trip out of the mountain house near the Ruth Gorge which was awesome by the way! Immediately after this I drove to the Wrangell Saint Elias Nat. Park to visit friends at St. Elias Alpine Guides. Here I joined these awesome guys for a pre-season trip where we did some excellent skiing and attempted a new line on the north face of an unclimbed/unnamed peak. With left over liquor coursing thru my veins from a classic Alaskan all night binger, I flew back to SEATAC to see the family and do several trips on Rainier. With a day off and a couple of warm hugs and kisses, I got back on the plane and flew back to the great white north to guide Mt. Bona and Mt. churchill in the Wrangell's. Although this was a great trip, I was feeling like eating a bullet or maybe even two due to the lack of down time and everlasting travel. Luckily, I ended up back in McCarthy With the SEAG crew and laid low for several days before continuing on to Talkeetna for a short stint with a reality show I dubbed the "Kahiltna Kaos". In three days of filming I got about 6.5 hours of sleep and a lead hollow point was starting to sound appealling once again!
But all great (and even chaotic!) things come to an end and I once again boarded the plane back to SEATAC with oversized bags and my family on my mind.
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